If you've spent any time researching retinol, you've probably run into two names that keep coming up: A313 and tretinoin. They sound similar, they get compared constantly, and the answer to "which is better?" is more interesting than most people make it.
Here's a clear, unhyped breakdown of what each one actually is, how they compare on strength, side effects, and accessibility, and how to decide which is right for your skin.
What is A313?
A313 is a vitamin A pommade made in France and sold under the brand name Pharma Développement. The active ingredient is retinyl palmitate — a stable ester of vitamin A. It's been sold in French pharmacies for decades, originally as a treatment for ichthyosis and other dry-skin conditions. Over time, the global skincare community discovered it as a high-strength, over-the-counter retinoid.
You can buy A313 without a prescription. One tube contains 50 grams of cream and typically lasts six to eight weeks of consistent use.
What is tretinoin?
Tretinoin (also sold under brand names like Retin-A, Renova, and ReFissa) is all-trans retinoic acid — the same molecule your skin produces when it converts other retinoids. Because it's already in its active form, your skin doesn't have to do any conversion to use it. That makes tretinoin the fastest-acting and most potent topical retinoid available in standard prescriptions.
Tretinoin is a prescription medication in most countries, including across the European Union, the United Kingdom, and the United States. You need a dermatologist or doctor to prescribe it, and you fill it at a pharmacy.
How they compare on the science
Both A313 and tretinoin work through the same pathway: they tell your skin to behave younger. Specifically, they bind to retinoic-acid receptors in your skin cells and stimulate faster cell turnover, increased collagen production, and improved skin texture.
The difference is how directly each one engages that pathway.
- Tretinoin is the active form. It binds to retinoic-acid receptors immediately.
- A313 (retinyl palmitate) is a precursor. Your skin enzymes convert it through retinol → retinaldehyde → retinoic acid. Each conversion step loses some potency.
A simplified hierarchy of vitamin A potency, from strongest to gentlest:
- Tretinoin (retinoic acid)
- Retinaldehyde
- Retinol
- Retinyl palmitate (A313)
So on a molecular level, tretinoin is meaningfully more potent. But that's only half the story.
Why the "weaker" option can be the right one
If tretinoin is stronger, why does anyone choose A313? Three reasons.
Tolerability. Tretinoin's strength is also its problem. For most first-time users, tretinoin causes weeks of redness, peeling, dryness, and irritation as the skin adjusts. Some people never adjust at all. A313 produces similar long-term results for many users at a fraction of the irritation, because its slower conversion gives the skin time to adapt.
Stability and formulation. A313's pommade formulation — heavy, occlusive, vaseline-rich — protects the active ingredient from light and air degradation while simultaneously buffering the skin against the dryness that comes with retinoid use. Most tretinoin formulations are cream or gel-based and tend to dry the skin further.
Accessibility. A313 doesn't require a prescription. For people who don't have easy access to a dermatologist, who can't afford repeat consultations, or who want to try a retinoid before committing to a medical relationship, A313 makes vitamin A skincare available without a gatekeeper.
Which one is more effective?
Here's the honest answer: for some skin concerns and some users, they produce similar long-term results. For others, tretinoin is more powerful.
Tretinoin has decades of clinical evidence behind it for treating moderate to severe acne, photodamage, and fine lines. If you have a clinical condition — cystic acne, deep wrinkles, significant sun damage — tretinoin will likely outperform A313.
For everyday skincare goals — smoother texture, more even tone, softer fine lines, brighter complexion, fewer minor breakouts — A313 produces real, visible results when used consistently. Many users who tried tretinoin and couldn't tolerate it find they can build a sustainable routine with A313 instead.
The retinoid that you actually use consistently for two years will always outperform the retinoid you quit after three weeks of irritation.
Side effects, side by side
| What you might experience | A313 | Tretinoin |
|---|---|---|
| First-week dryness or flaking | Mild to moderate | Moderate to severe |
| Initial breakout ("the purge") | Possible | Common |
| Long-term sun sensitivity | Increased | Significantly increased |
| Stinging on application | Rare | Common |
| Worsening before improvement | Mild | Pronounced |
For both products, daily SPF in the morning is non-negotiable. Any topical that speeds cell turnover makes your skin more vulnerable to UV damage.
How to choose
Choose tretinoin if:
- You have moderate to severe acne, deep wrinkles, or significant sun damage that warrants a medical-grade intervention.
- You have access to a dermatologist for ongoing care.
- You've tried over-the-counter retinoids and need something stronger.
- You're prepared for an adjustment period of several weeks.
Choose A313 if:
- You want the benefits of a serious retinoid without the prescription pathway.
- You have sensitive skin or a history of poor tolerance to active ingredients.
- You're new to retinoids and want a gentler on-ramp.
- You live somewhere prescription tretinoin is expensive or hard to access.
- You want a single product that does both retinoid work and skin-barrier support.
It's also reasonable to think of A313 as a gateway to tretinoin: many people use A313 for six to twelve months, build their skin's tolerance to retinoids, and then graduate to tretinoin if they want more aggressive results.
How to start with A313
If you've decided A313 is the right starting point, here's the short version of how to introduce it sensibly:
- Frequency. Two to three nights per week for the first two weeks. Increase from there only if your skin tolerates it well.
- Amount. A pea-sized portion is enough for the entire face. More is not better — more is just more irritating.
- Application. Clean, completely dry skin. Damp skin increases penetration and irritation. Avoid the eye area and the corners of the mouth.
- Support. A simple, fragrance-free moisturizer on top (or layered before, if your skin is particularly reactive). Skip exfoliating acids on the nights you use A313.
- Sunscreen. Every morning, broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, even on cloudy days, even indoors near windows. This is the single most important step.
Most people see early results within four to six weeks: smoother texture, fewer fine lines, and an overall improvement in skin clarity. The biggest changes show up between months three and six.
A word on authentic A313
Because A313 is sought-after and not always easy to find outside France, the market has its share of counterfeits. Genuine A313 is manufactured by Pharma Développement in Corbigny, France, and the packaging carries a specific batch code and EAN. If you're buying from a reseller you don't recognize, check that the seller is an authorized distributor and that the packaging matches the official manufacturer's specifications.
The bottom line
Tretinoin is more potent. A313 is more accessible, more forgiving, and — for many people — more sustainable.
If you're considering retinoid use for the first time and don't have a clinical condition that demands prescription strength, A313 is a reasonable starting point. If you've already tried gentler options and want something more aggressive, tretinoin is the next step up.
The retinoid that fits your life, your skin, and your tolerance is the right one. Consistency over twelve months will outperform potency over three weeks every time.
The A313 sold on this site is authentic, sourced directly from Pharma Développement in France. Free shipping in the Netherlands and on EU orders over €40. 30-day returns.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. If you have skin concerns that require diagnosis or treatment, consult a dermatologist.
