If you've been reading ingredient lists lately, you may have spotted "hydroxypinacolone retinoate", usually shortened to HPR, on serums that promise retinoid benefits with less irritation. It's a genuinely newer molecule, and it raises a fair question: how does it compare with the classic vitamin A found in products like A313 Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Face Cream, and does "newer" automatically mean better?
What HPR actually is
HPR is a cosmetic retinoid: an ester of retinoic acid, the form of vitamin A that skin cells ultimately respond to. Its main talking point is that, according to data published by its developers, it can interact with the skin's retinoid receptors without first going through the usual conversion steps. It's sold over the counter in the EU, most often in lightweight serums and oils, where it typically makes up a small percentage of the formula.
What's worth knowing is that most of the research on HPR so far comes from ingredient suppliers and fairly small studies. That doesn't mean it doesn't work. It simply means there is far less independent, long-term evidence behind it than behind retinol and its classic esters, which have been used and studied in cosmetics for decades.
How classic vitamin A works differently
Classic cosmetic vitamin A, meaning retinol and retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate, works through a step-by-step conversion in the skin, gradually turning into retinoic acid. Those extra steps are part of why these forms are generally considered gentle: the skin receives the active form slowly rather than all at once. The A313 range is built around this well-established vitamin A family, which also means it sits within the EU's specific cosmetics rules on retinol and retinyl ester concentrations, a clear framework if you like to know exactly what you're putting on your skin.
The real differences, side by side
- Track record: classic vitamin A has decades of cosmetic use behind it; HPR is much newer and less independently studied.
- Tolerance: both are often chosen by people who find stronger retinoids too harsh, and individual skin response varies with either one.
- Format: HPR usually comes as a serum that needs a separate moisturiser; A313 Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Face Cream combines vitamin A with a hydrating base in one step.
- Availability: both are over-the-counter cosmetic ingredients, and neither requires a prescription.
Neither ingredient is universally "better". HPR may appeal if you enjoy trying newer formulations and prefer a serum texture. Classic vitamin A may appeal if you value a long track record and a simpler, cream-based routine.
How to use A313 Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Face Cream
- Apply in the evening to clean, dry skin, using about a pea-sized amount for the whole face.
- If you're new to vitamin A, start every second or third evening and increase gradually as your skin gets used to it.
- Keep it away from the eye contour, the lips, and any irritated or broken skin.
- Don't use it in the same routine as another retinoid, HPR included: combining them adds irritation risk without a clear benefit.
- Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
When to ask for advice
Vitamin A skincare isn't suitable for everyone in every situation. If you have very sensitive or reactive skin, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or are using any prescribed skin treatment, speak with a pharmacist or skincare professional before starting A313 or any other retinoid, HPR included. The same applies if you notice redness, stinging or peeling that doesn't settle.
HPR is an interesting addition to the retinoid family, and it's good to have more options than ever. If you'd rather keep things simple with a well-understood form of vitamin A in a moisturising cream, A313 Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Face Cream is a calm, practical place to start.
